Friday, November 28, 2008

Buddhism

Buddhism
basic information

Buddhism originated in India in the 6th century BC. It consists of the teachings of the Buddha, Gautama Siddhartha. Of the main branches of Buddhism, it is the Mahayana or "Greater Vehicle" Buddhism which found its way to Japan.

Buddhism was imported to Japan via China and Korea in the form of a present from the friendly Korean kingdom of Kudara (Paikche) in the 6th century. While Buddhism was welcomed by the ruling nobles as Japan's new state religion, it did not initially spread among the common people due to its complex theories.

There were also a few initial conflicts with Shinto, Japan's native religion. The two religions were soon able to co-exist and even complement each other.

During the Nara Period, the great Buddhist monasteries in the capital Nara, such as Todaiji, gained strong political influence and were one of the reasons for the government to move the capital to Nagaoka in 784 and then to Kyoto in 794. Nevertheless, the problem of politically ambitious and militant monasteries remained a main issue for the governments over many centuries of Japanese history.

Nara's Todaiji

During the early Heian Period, two new Buddhist sects were introduced from China: the Tendai sect in 805 by Saicho and the Shingon sect in 806 by Kukai. More sects later branched off the Tendai sect. Among these, the most important ones are mentioned below:

In 1175, the Jodo sect (Pure Land sect) was founded by Honen. It found followers among all different social classes since its theories were simple and based on the principle that everybody can achieve salvation by strongly believing in the Buddha Amida. In 1224, the Jodo-Shinshu (True Pure Land sect) was founded by Honen's successor Shinran. The Jodo sects continue to have millions of followers today.

In 1191, the Zen sect was introduced from China. Its complicated theories were popular particularly among the members of the military class. According to Zen teachings, one can achieve self enlightenment through meditation and discipline. At present, Zen seems to enjoy a greater popularity overseas than within Japan.

The Lotus Hokke or Nichiren sect, was founded by Nichiren in 1253. The sect was exceptional due to its intolerant stance towards other Buddhist sects. Nichiren Buddhism still has many millions of followers today, and several "new religions" are based on Nichiren's teachings.

Kamakura's Great Buddha

Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi fought the militant Buddhist monasteries (especially the Jodo sects) at the end of the 16th century and practically extinguished Buddhist influence on the political sector.

Buddhist institutions were attacked again in the early years of the Meiji Period, when the new Meiji government favored Shinto as the state religion and tried to separate and emancipate it from Buddhism.

Nowadays about 90 million people consider themselves Buddhists in Japan. However, the religion does not directly affect the everyday life of the average Japanese very strongly. Funerals are usually carried out in a Buddhist way, and many households keep a small house altar in order to pay respect to their ancestors.

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Nara Park

Nara Park
basic information

Nara Park (Nara Koen) is a large, pleasant park in central Nara, established in 1880. It is the location of many of Nara's main attractions including Todaiji, Kasuga Taisha, Kofukuji and the Nara National Museum, a museum specialzed in Buddhist art.

The park is home to hundreds of freely roaming deer. Considered messengers of the gods in Shinto, Nara's deer have become a symbol of the city and have even been designated a National Treasure.

Deer
Nara National Museum

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Autumn leaves

Autumn leaves
basic information
Japanese maple (momiji)

Colorful leaves (koyo) are to the Japanese autumn what cherry blossoms are to spring. The viewing of autumn leaves has been a popular activity in Japan for centuries and today draws large numbers of travelers to famous spots.

Each year, starting in mid September, the "koyo front" slowly moves southwards from the northern island of Hokkaido until it reaches the lower elevations of central and southern Japan towards the end of November.

2008 Autumn Leaf Reports
November 21, 2008
Kyoto Report (4/4)
Kyoto City
November 20, 2008
Kyoto Report (3/4)
Kyoto City
November 20, 2008
Miyajima
Hiroshima Prefecture

view all reports...

Autumn Leaf Spots

Famous spots for autumn leaves are scattered across the country, especially in mountainous regions, parks, temples and gardens. Below is a list of some autumn leaf destinations with the approximate best timing in the average year. Caution: the leaves' timing differs from year to year depending on the weather:

Hokkaido
late Sep
early Oct
mid Oct
late Oct
early Nov
mid Nov
late Nov
Daisetsuzan
Shiretoko
Akan
Noboribetsu
Shikotsuko
Jozankei
Onuma Park

Tohoku
late Sep
early Oct
mid Oct
late Oct
early Nov
mid Nov
late Nov
Oirase Stream
Kakunodate
Hiraizumi

Kanto
late Sep
early Oct
mid Oct
late Oct
early Nov
mid Nov
late Nov
Nikko
Hakone
Tokyo
Kamakura

Chubu
late Sep
early Oct
mid Oct
late Oct
early Nov
mid Nov
late Nov
Alpine Route
Kamikochi
Karuizawa
Fuji Five Lakes
Eiheiji
Shosenkyo
Kanazawa
Izu Peninsula

Kansai
late Sep
early Oct
mid Oct
late Oct
early Nov
mid Nov
late Nov
Yoshino
Kyoto
Hikone
Ise

Chugoku
late Sep
early Oct
mid Oct
late Oct
early Nov
mid Nov
late Nov
Miyajima
Yamaguchi

Shikoku
late Sep
early Oct
mid Oct
late Oct
early Nov
mid Nov
late Nov
Kotohira

Kyushu
late Sep
early Oct
mid Oct
late Oct
early Nov
mid Nov
late Nov
Dazaifu

A short list of popular koyo spots in the Kyoto and Tokyo regions follows below:

Kyoto:
Tofukuji
Tofukuji Station, JR Nara Line and Keihan Main Line
Usually best in the second half of November, this temple displays some of Kyoto's most spectacular autumn foliage and gets very crowded.
Takao
JR Bus or Kyoto City Bus
The spectacular autumn colors around the temples in this forested valley north of Kyoto are usually at their best a few days before the autumn colors in the city center.
Yoshiminedera
Bus from Mukomachi or Higashi-Muko Station
Similar to Kiyomizudera on Kyoto's eastern mountains (Higashiyama), Yoshiminedera is a temple on the slopes of Kyoto's western mountains (Nishiyama) with nice views over the city.
Arashiyama
Keifuku, JR or Hankyu Railways
Arashiyama is a district at the outskirts of Kyoto. The forested mountains in the background and the trees on the grounds of Arashiyama's temples usually turn colors in the second half of November.
Shugakuin Imperial Villa
Shugakuin Station or Shugakuin-rikyu bus stop
The spacious and elegant gardens of this imperial villa feature beautiful autumn colors during the second half of November. It can only be visited on tours, and advance reservations are mandatory.
Enkoji
Ichijoji Station or Ichijoji-Sagarimatsucho bus stop
A small temple within walking distance of Shugakuin Imperial Villa (see above), Enkoji offers beautiful autumn colors. Be sure not to miss the spectacular bird's view of the temple from the hill behind.
Eikando
Nanzenji-Eizando-michi bus stop
Eikando, also known as Zenrinji Temple, is another of Kyoto's most popular koyo spots. It is one of several temples to offer special light-up opening hours in the evenings.
Tokyo:
Rikugien
Komagome Station (JR Yamanote Line)
A Japanese landscape garden in central Tokyo. Autumn leaves are usually best towards the end of November.
Yoyogi Koen
Harajuku Station (JR Yamanote Line)
A Western style city park in central Tokyo. Autumn leaves are usually best in the second half of November.
Koishikawa Korakuen
Iidabashi Station (JR Chuo/Sobu Line)
A Japanese style landscape garden in central Tokyo. Autumn leaves are usually best towards the end of November.
Around Tokyo:
Mount Takao
Takaosanguchi Station (Keio Railways)
A wooded mountain, roughly one hour west of Shinjuku. The autumn leaves are usually best in the second half of November.
Nikko
Nikko Station (JR or Tobu Railways)
The Oku-Nikko region around Lake Chuzenji and Yumoto Onsen is particularly nice for koyo. Depending on the elevation, the trees are most beautiful between late September and early November.
Hakone
Hakone-Yumoto Station (Odakyu Railways)
The area around Lake Ashi is particularly beautiful. The autumn leaves are usually best in late October and early November.
Fuji Five Lakes
Kawaguchiko Station (Fujikyu Railways)
Mount Fuji in combination with the lakes and autumn leaves makes a spectacular sight. The autumn leaves are usually best in late October and early November.
Shosenkyo Gorge
Kofu Station (JR Chuo Line)
Often refered to as Japan's most beautiful gorge, the Shosenkyo is particularly spectacular during the autumn leaf season, which usually takes place from October to mid November.
Nishizawa Valley
Enzan Station (JR Chuo Line)
A densely wooded, narrow valley with picturesque waterfalls. The autumn leaves are usually best in late October and early November.

Highway Bus

Highway Buses
basic information

Highway buses (kosoku bus) can be an attractive alternative to trains for long and medium distance travel in Japan. While highway buses tend to be slower than express trains, they are typically between 20 and 50 percent cheaper. Furthermore, by taking an overnight bus, one can save on accommodation.

Highway bus routes

Japan is covered by a dense highway bus network. Every prefecture and larger city is served by at least one bus company, operating lines into other parts of the country. On major routes, such as the Tokyo - Nagoya - Kyoto - Osaka route, fierce competition has resulted in very low fares. On most other routes, the bus companies are often cooperating rather than competing with each other.


How to use highway buses

Seat reservations are necessary on most long distance buses. Reservations can be made at major bus terminals, through travel agents, by phone (usually in Japanese only, phone numbers are published on the bus companies' websites) or online (in Japanese only, see links below). Reservations for JR highway buses can also be made at ticket counters of JR railway stations.

Making a reservation one or more days in advance is recommended especially on popular routes and during busy travel seasons. However, if there is space left, it is also possible to get a seat reservation just prior to departure at the bus terminal.

Ticket types

On most routes, three types of tickets are available: one way tickets, round trip tickets and booklets of multiple tickets (kaisuken):

Round trip tickets are typically around 10 percent cheaper than two one way tickets. However, the return trip has to be made within a certain time frame, typically within six to ten days following the outward journey.

Booklets of multiple tickets usually include four or five tickets and are discounted by about 10 percent compared to single tickets. The tickets need to be used within a certain time frame, which is typically three months following the purchase.

Furthermore, there are usually discounts for children (aged 6-12), students and groups.

Note that the Japan Rail Pass is not valid on most highway buses, even on highway buses operated by JR bus companies. Among the few exceptions are the JR buses between Morioka and Hirosaki/Aomori, Tokyo and Nagoya/Kyoto/Osaka/Tsukuba, and Nagoya and Kyoto/Osaka.

Types of buses

Many overnight buses are equipped with comfortable, reclining seats, which are arranged in rows of three seats and two aisles. On cheap overnight buses and most daytime buses, standard buses with four seats per row are commonly used.

Most buses come with a toilet and phone on board, and make regular toilet stops along the way. Smoking is not permitted on most highway buses nowadays.

Double decker buses are used on selected routes.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Hanatoro

Hanatoro
basic information
The entrance to Kiyomizudera illuminated during the Higashiyama Hanatoro

Hanatoro, which means "flower and light road", is a set of illumination events that take place in the Higashiyama district of Kyoto in March and the Arashiyama district of Kyoto in December. During Hanatoro the streets are illuminated by thousands of lanterns set throughout popular areas combined with flower and light displays.

Many temples and shrines are illuminated and have special extended viewing hours. In addition, live and street performances are held at stages around the area. The pleasant and unique atmosphere of Hanatoro attracts many visitors who can stroll the streets and see a different side of Kyoto.

Higashiyama Hanatoro:

Yasaka Pagoda

The next Higashiyama Hanatoro will be held March 13 to 22, 2009.

During the March Hanatoro the streets of Kyoto's historic Higashiyama district are lined by more than 2400 lanterns that stretch from Shorenin all the way to Kiyomizudera. Nearly all of the popular temples and shrines in the district are illuminated and have extended opening hours.

The Hanabutai stage is set up in Kodaiji Temple Park where daily live music, dance and performances are held. Additionally, performance areas in front of the large central weeping cherry tree (shidarezakura) in Maruyama Park and Kiyomizudera are set aside for street performances.

Many shops also have extended opening hours during Hanatoro, and in combination with the illumination events makes for a pleasant evening atmosphere which attracts many people to the area during a time of the day when it is usually rather deserted.

People strolling around Higashiyama
Lit up shops and streets


Arashiyama Hanatoro:

Togetsukyo Bridge illumination during the Arashiyama Hanatoro

The next Arashiyama Hanatoro will be held December 12 to 21, 2008.

Arashiyama is a pleasant district on the outskirts of Kyoto that holds its Hanatoro every December. For ten days, more than five kilometers of streets around the town center and along the river are lit up by lanterns. Many temples and shrines, such as Daikakuji, are illuminated and have special extended hours.

Of the most spectacular attractions are the iconic Togetsukyo Bridge spanning the river and the bamboo forest behind Tenryuji Temple. Both are illuminated during Hanatoro with the Togetsukyo Bridge being particularly beautiful as it is lit up along with the surrounding mountainsides.

Illuminated bamboo forest
People strolling along the river

Monday, November 24, 2008

Todaiji

Todaiji
basic information

Todaiji ("Great Eastern Temple") is one of Japan's most famous and historically significant temples and a landmark of Nara.

Todaiji was constructed in 752 as the head temple of all provincial Buddhist temples of Japan and grew so powerful that the capital was moved from Nara to Nagaoka in 784 in order to lower its influence on government affairs.

Not only is Todaiji housing Japan's largest Buddha statue (Daibutsu), but it is also the world's largest wooden building, even though the present reconstruction of 1692 is only two thirds of the original temple's size.

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Expressways

Expressways
basic information

Japan's four main island and Okinawa are covered by a expressway network of over 7,000 kilometers. Further routes are still under construction. Below is a map showing most operational highways.

Foreign visitors should encounter few problems using Japanese expressways, since all important signs are written in both, Japanese and English. The speed limit for passenger cars is usually 80 or 100 km/h.

The use of highways is subject to tolls. The table below shows approximate costs for a regular vehicle between selected major cities. Lower rates apply to light vehicles and motorcycles, while higher rates apply to trucks, buses and trailers.

Approximate Tolls (in yen):

Kagoshima
Fukuoka
Hiroshima
Osaka
Kyoto
Nagoya
Aomori
Tokyo
27,500
23,000
17,000
12,000
10,500
8,000
14,000
Aomori
39,000
34,000
28,500
23,000
22,000
20,500
Nagoya
21,000
16,000
10,500
3,500
3,500
Kyoto
18,500
13,500
8,000
2,000
Osaka
18,000
13,000
7,500
Hiroshima
11,500
6,500
Fukuoka
6,000

Approximate Travel Distance:


Kagoshima
Fukuoka
Hiroshima
Osaka
Kyoto
Nagoya
Aomori
Tokyo
1400km
1100km
850km
550km
500km
350km
700km
Aomori
2050km
1800km
1500km
1200km
1150km
1050km
Nagoya
1050km
800km
500km
200km
150km
Kyoto
900km
650km
350km
50km
Osaka
1000km
700km
450km
Hiroshima
550km
300km
Fukuoka
300km

Four public corporations were formerly in charge of expressway construction and maintainance. However, in October 2005, the public corporations were restructured into the following six private companies:

  • East Nippon Expressway (Hokkaido, Tohoku, Kanto)
  • Central Nippon Expressway (Kanto, Chubu)
  • West Nippon Expressway (Kansai, Chugoku, Shikoku, Kyushu)
  • Metropolitan Expressway (metropolitan Tokyo)
  • Hanshin Expressway (Osaka and Kobe)
  • Honshu-Shikoku Bridge Expressway (between Shikoku and Honshu)

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Motomachi

Motomachi
basic information
Old Hakodate Public Hall (upper building)

The harbor of Hakodate was one of the first to be opened to foreign trade in 1854 after Japan's era of isolation had come to an end. As a result, many traders from Russia, China and Western countries moved to Hakodate. Motomachi at the foot of Mount Hakodate, became a district favored among the new foreign residents.

Many foreign looking buildings remain in the area today. Among the most famous are the Russian Orthodox Church, the Old British Consulate, the Chinese Memorial Hall, the prefectural government's former branch office building and the old Hakodate Public Hall.

Hakodate Russian Orthodox Church
Narrow street in the Motomachi district